1341 Third Avenue
New York, NY 10021
(212) 988-9200

The Upper East side is known as a haven for young trophy wives with strollers who like eating lunch with each other. Just wander around on any given weekday afternoon and you'll be constantly dodging four wheeled baby-carriers. Eerily enough, I've never seen a toddler. It's as though once the kid can crawl, they're shipped off to some finishing school.

Most of B.R. Guest's restaurants pepper Manhattan's downtown and West Side. Atlantic Grill is their Upper East Side luxury seafood outpost. When Bro and I showed up this Saturday evening, they were rather crowded. It was 9PM and, despite having a reservation, we waited about ten minutes to be sat.

First off, let me get this out of the way. I don't really like seafood restaurants that try to spice up their menu by adding a sushi bar. It makes the menu feel lopsided and weird. London Lennie's does the same thing. Having said that, the first dish we tried was something our waitress recommended, a sushi special. Our waitress, by the way, was totally cool and that's the main reason I decided to try the dish. This special, the Tempura Soft Shelled Crab Roll, was very good. It was extremely light but, at only five pieces, not very big.

Bro started with his long-time favorite, Lobster Bisque. He liked it very much, but I quite honestly found the dish thin and watery. I like my lobster bisques thick and heavy, like they're a meal unto themselves. Not so much was the Atlantic Grill bisque. My appetizer, my other appetizer, really, was the Yellowtail Tartare Nicoise. This was delicious. Very light, almost like a sushi salad... which really it was, what with the tomato vinaigrette and haricot vert (green beans for youse uncultured types). The yellowtail was perfectly smooth and came within a hair of melting on your tongue.

My entree of choice was the Horseradish Crusted Sustainable Scottish Salmon. I have no idea what that means. But man, did I feel like I did my part for the environment that day. Alongside it were asparagus-leek ravioli and a cherry tomato ragout. Since I like anything asparagus or leek, I figured I couldn't go wrong as far as its sides were concerned. And I didn't. The crust was like a little thin shelf of horseradish essence. I could barely taste it, and that's good since it had to potential to totally overpower the salmon. The salmon itself was very moist and, since I ordered it medium, not overly flaky. Bro went for the Crab Crusted Golden Snapper with herb gnocchi, baby artichokes and a truffle emulsion. Since I didn't eat more than a bite or two, I don't feel like I'm in a great position to fully judge the dish, but Bro ate the whole thing and I certainly liked it a lot.

I was disappointed with the fact that Atlantic Grill, a seafood restaurant, has relatively few unique seafood entrees. Only about a half dozen. The rest are "simply grilled" standard fish dishes with your choice of a side and a sauce. And I can get those at Red Lobster. Speaking of which, Atlantic Grill also has lobster.

For dessert, Bro and I picked from the rather traditional menu. I chose the Apple Streusel Pie with brown butter ice cream. Coming piping hot in a 6" x 4" tin, you could easily share this dessert with someone rather than eat it alone. The apple streusel was quite good, as was the ice cream, which I initially thought I wouldn't like. Bro got the Molten Chocolate Cake with malt crunch ice cream. It was a yawn-inspiring lava cake that seems to have become this decade's dessert of choice. When Bro cut into it, the hot chocolate spilled over the plate and while I couldn't have cared less, he gave it, and I quote: A+++.

Two beers, three appetizers, two entrees, two desserts, a tea, a coffee, tax and tip totaled a robust $155.68.

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